NRLF 


B   M   310   ODD 


IRKELE  Y 

IBRARY 

NIVERSITY    OF 
CALIFORNIA 


ORATIVE  ART 


TEXTILES 

AND    THE    ORIGIN 
OF    THEIR    NAMES 


BY 


ROBERT   H.  iMEGRAW 

L- — 


Aid: 


COPYRIGHT,   1906 

BY 

ROBERT  H.  MEGRAW 
NEW   YORK 


and 

aged  me  in  compiling  and 
writtug  t&is  tr00fe. 


M860043 


JOSEPH   MARIE  JACQUARD 


FOREWORD 

JV/IY  reason  and  excuse  for  doing 
the  work — That  men  in  the 
textile  industries  of  all  kinds  might 
be  encouraged  to  learn  the  details  of 
their  business  by  study  and  research, 
thereby  making  themselves  valuable 
and  better  men,  and  at  the  same  time 
more  agreeable  in  business. 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


IN  its  fullest  sense  the  word  textile  ZECI ttlC£ 
means  every  kind  of  stuff,  no 
matter  of  what  material, 
wrought  in  the  loom  or  by  hand ; 
whether  the  threads  be  spun  from  the 
produce  of  the  animal,  vegetable  or 
mineral  kingdom ;  sheep's  wool,  goat's 
hair  or  flax,  hemp,  mallow,  the  fibrous 
filling  of  pods,  such  as  cotton,  cactus, 
etc,,  the  glutinous  threads  of  insect 
cocoons,  as  the  silkworm,  of  gold,  silver 
or  other  metals — all  are  textiles. 

Sheep  were  first  bred  for  their  wool 
for  raiment,  and  not  for  food.  At  first 
the  locks  of  wool  torn  from  the  sheep's 
back  by  brambles  were  gathered ; 
afterward  shearing  was  thought  of.  In 
some  countries  plucking  by  hand  from 
the  living  animal  was  the  manner  of 
procuring  the  fleece ;  however  procured, 
the  wool  was,  from  the  earliest  records, 
spun  by  women  from  the  distaff. 
Before  weaving  by  hand  was  known 
the  threads  were  plaited  into  cloth. 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


COttOn  The  soft,  wool-like  fiber,  which  is 

part  of  the  fruit  or  seed  of  the  cotton 
plant.  All  lands  produce  food  vege- 
tables of  some  kind,  but  few  grow  in 
abundance  those  convertible  into  cloth- 
ing. Cotton  is  to-day  the  most  impor- 
tant staple  in  commercial  trade. 

The  cotton  plant  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  known  as  one  of  general 
utility  before  the  discovery  of  America, 
and  has  been  developed  as  such  since 
about  the  year  1  700. 

We  read  of  cotton  cloth  in  Chinese 
records  about  200  B.C.  as  being  rare 
and  precious;  special  mention  is  made 
of  a  Chinese  emperor  of  A.D.  502, 
who  ascended  the  throne  arrayed  in  a 
cotton  robe.  In  the  seventh  century 
the  plant  was  cultivated  as  a  garden 
flower.  Not  until  the  eleventh  century 
did  cotton  become  of  use  in  China  as 
an  article  of  manufacture.  Strange  to 
say,  although  China  was  the  first  to 
manufacture  cotton  cloth,  she  has  never 

10 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


been  a  source  of  supply  to  other  coun-  COttOll 
tries.  The  wall  was  too  strong  a  pro- 
tective tariff.  It  remained  for  the  South- 
ern United  States  to  grow  the  plant  in 
quantity.  With  negro  slaves  to  cultivate 
and  gather  the  crop,  cotton  soon  became 
king.  Then  we  had  Eli  Whitney  with 
his  invention  of  the  "gin,"  in  1  792,  for 
separating  the  fiber  from  the  seed.  It 
was  said  of  Whitney  that  he  did  more 
for  the  power  and  progress  of  America 
than  Peter  the  Great  did  for  Russia's 
history  and  greatness. 

Cotton  is  king;  but  the  tariff  of  the 
United  States  is  at  war  with  him.  If 
we  continue  our  prohibitive  duties  on 
other  materials,  we  will  eventually  be 
compelled  to  consume  most  of  what  we 
produce.  There  are  other  cotton-grow- 
ing countries,  fast  reaching  a  point  in 
production  where  they  will  "give  us 
pause.'* 

All  the  Nile  valley  needs  to  enter 
the  cotton  market  of  the  world  is  the 

11 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


black  people  south  of  her  to  help. 
What  the  black  did  for  us  he  can  do 
for  Egypt.  The  "Cairo  to  the  Cape*' 
railroad  will  help  in  bringing  the  work- 
ers to  the  field.  When  that  day  comes 
the  king  will  move  his  court,  and  we 
can  then  find  a  market  for  the  65  per 
cent,  of  our  crop  we  cannot  consume. 

SHft  The  emission  of  the  glands  of  a  worm 

originally  found  in  the  mountainous 
provinces  of  China,  which  bred  and 
fed  on  the  mulberry  tree.  The  worm 
envelops  itself  in  this  fine,  thread-like 
substance,  which  will,  when  unwound, 
measure  as  much  as  four  thousand 
yards.  The  thread  hardens  on  expo- 
sure to  the  air,  and  is  then  converted 
into  the  different  commercial  classifica- 
tions for  manufacturing,  such  as  floss, 
organzine,  etc. 

From  China,  through  India,  up  the 
Red  Sea,  across  the  Isthmus  of  Suez, 
silk  can  be  traced.  Where  we  learn 
of  the  first  weaving,  at  Platasa,  a  city  of 

12 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


ancient  Greece,  garments  of  silk  were 
worn  to  expose,  and  not  to  conceal  the 
form.  Then,  as  now,  the  desire  for 
luxury  was  sometimes  an  incentive  to 
invention  and  enterprise. 

We  next  learn  of  the  Romans  paying 
fabulous  prices  for  silk  to  adorn  their 
favorites.  Aurelian  told  his  wife  he 
could  not  allow  her  to  wear  a  garment 
made  wholly  of  silk,  as  its  worth  was  that 
of  gold,  for  then  its  cost  was  pound 
for  pound  with  gold — A.D.  1  20. 

Two  Greek  monks  who  spent  many 
years  in  China  returned  to  Greece  with 
eggs  of  the  worm  concealed  in  their 
hollow  walking-staves ;  presented 
them  to  their  emperor ;  when  hatched 
the  worms  were  distributed  over  Greece 
and  Asia  Minor;  soon  the  western 
world  grew  its  own  silk. 

The  name  silk  is  evidently  from 
the  Assyrian  seolc,  which  applied  to 
the  people  of  that  part  of  China  where 
silk  was  first  known.  You  will  note 

13 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


the  name  "silk"  is  similar  to  a  degree 
in  all  languages;  look  it  up  in  French, 
German,  etc. 


CnllCO  Printed  cotton  cloth  ;  takes  its  name 

from  Calicut,  a  city   in    India   where 
cloth  was  first  printed. 


flDU0Un 


Fine  cotton  cloth,  originally  made  in 
Mosul,  a  city  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tigris,  in  Asia. 

Silk-faced  fabric  of  glossy  finish, 
obtained  by  passing  between  hot  rollers. 
The  name  satin  is  from  Zaytown,  in 
China,  where  it  was  first  made. 

A  light-weight,  plain  silk  cloth, 
known  of  first  in  Bagdad,  and  named 
for  one  of  the  city  streets. 

The  hair  of  the  alpaca,  an  animal  of 
the  llama  species,  found  in  Chili  and 
Peru;  woven  as  filling  on  a  cotton 
warp  makes  the  fabric  known  as  alpaca. 


14 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


A  cloth  of  silk  and  cotton,  silk  and 
linen,  silk  and  wool,  or  all  linen  in 
flowered  or  geometrical  designs  for 
drapery  or  table  covering;  takes  its 
name  from  Damascus,  the  chief  city  of 
Syria,  where  it  was  first  made. 

A  fine  linen  cloth  made  first  in  Cam-     Gftftlbf  1C 
brai,  France.     The  old  Flemish  name 
for  the  city  being  Kameryk. 

A  veiling  net,  made  first  in  Gaza,  in     (5&U3C 
Palestine. 

Solid-color  woolen  cloth,  for  table     3B&13C 
and  wall  covering,  made  largely  in  the 
city  of  Baza,  in  Spain. 

A  stout,  cotton   fabric,   made   with     3Diltllt\> 
cords  or  welts  lengthwise  of  the  piece; 
used  first  as  furniture  covering.     The 
name  is  from  Damietta,  a  town  in  Egypt, 
where  the  cloth  was  originated. 

An  untwilled,  pick-and-pick  weave, 
cotton  on  linen  cloth  of  lighter  weight 
than  canvas;  used  for  clothing,  and  in 

15 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


some  weights  for  sail  cloth ;  first  made 
in  Torque,  a  town  in  Normandy,  and 
derives  its  name  from  its  resemblance 
to  a  duck's  skin. 

Every  one  knows  what  a  blanket  is, 
but  how  many  know  it  gets  its 
name  from  Thomas  Blanket,  a  famous 
clothier,  who  made  blankets  in  England 
about  the  year  1 840  ? 

Figured  cotton  or  linen  tissue ;  gets 
its  name  from  the  Greek  diaspron, 
meaning  figured. 

Even-twilled  cloth  of  wool,  mohair 
or  cotton;  derives  its  name  from  xerga, 
a  Spanish  name  for  a  peculiar  woolen 
blanket  or  wrap. 

IDClVCt  From    the    Italian    vellute— woolly 

feeling  to  the  touch,  as  a  woolly  pelt 
or  hide ;  this  word  applies  to  the  cover- 
ing of  a  deer's  horns,  and  seems  to  take 
root  in  the  furry  feeling  to  the  touch. 
True  velvet  is  made  wholly  of  silk. 

16 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


An  imitation  velvet,  made  of  cotton, 
usually  with  plain  back— not  twilled,  as     VCtCCIt 
silk  velvet. 


This  is  a  misnomer,  and  does  not 
mean  velvet  to  the  initiated.  The  velu- 
tina  is  a  species  of  shellfish. 

A  fabric  of  the  velvet  kind,  made  of 
coarse  wool  yarn  and  silk. 

The  lowest  grade  of  cotton  velvet, 
used  for  covering  cheap  coffins,  lining 
cases,  etc.;  sold  by  the  inches  in  width, 
which  ranges  from  16  to  32  inches. 
Originally  made  in  Bagdad  for  wall 
covering — called  for  Tabby  street  in 
that  city. 

Shawls  were  made  first  for  floor  cov- 
ering. Sala  is  Sanscrit  for  floor,  from 
which  we  get  the  name. 


From  the  French  "  of  wool ";  applies 
to  the  most  primitive  weave  of   plain     1<UUC 
wool  yarn.     Thirty  years  ago  delaine 


Sbawl 


17 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Namgs. 


2)C"  was  the  staple  of  a  dress  goods  stock. 

It  was  made  in  solid  colors  —  red,  yel- 
low, blue,  salmon,  pink,  green  and  pur- 
ple. In  the  old  days  of  general  jobbing, 
if  your  prices  on  delaines  and  Tabby 
velvet  were  right,  you  sold  the  shopper. 


From  the  Indian  bandanna  —  to  bind 
or  tie.  In  dyeing,  the  cloth  is  tied  in 
knots  when  dipped.  This  gives  the 
clouded  effect  seen  in  the  original  ban- 
danna handkerchiefs. 

Color  is  concentrated  light  rays.  The 
primary  colors  are  red,  yellow  and  blue  ; 
the  secondaries  green,  orange  and  pur- 
ple. By  mixing  blue  and  yellow  we 
get  green.  Red  and  yellow  give  orange, 
and  red  with  blue  yields  purple.  We 
then  have  the  tertiary  or  third  results. 
Mix  orange  and  purple  to  get  russet  or 
yellow  brown.  Orange  and  green 
make  citron  or  lemon.  Purple  and 
green  result  in  olive. 

18 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


What  a   warmth   there   is   in   red.     BSffCCtOf 
Naturally,  in  the  dull  months  of  winter, 
this  color  is  in  favor. 

Blue  conveys  a  feeling  of  coolness, 
therefore  you  find  it  in  favor  for  sum- 
mer wear. 

Yellow,  the  lightest  and  purest  of 
the  primary  colors,  is  the  most  trying  of 
them  all.  By  contrast  it  is  the  most 
vivid,  and  in  using  it  too  much  care  can- 
not be  taken  in  getting  the  proper  shade. 

Spotless  white  was,  to  the  ancient 
Britons,  symbolic  of  sunlight  and  holi- 
ness, and  was  the  dress  of  the  Druid 
priest. 

Light  blue  was  the  color  of  the  garb 
of  the  singer  or  poet. 

Green,  the  livery  of  the  wood  and 
field,  was  the  dress  of  the  teacher  of 
natural  history  and  medicine. 

Queen  Boadicea  of  Britain,  being 
the  patroness  of  all  the  early  arts  and 
sciences,  wore  a  motley  gown,  checked 
or  plaided  in  all  the  colors,  which  was 

19 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


EffCCt  Of     no  doubt  the  origin  of  the  Scotch  plaid 
of  to-day. 

"  It  is  not  what  a  man  outwardly 
has  or  wants  that  constitutes  his  hap- 
piness or  misery.  Nakedness,  hunger, 
distress  of  all  kinds  have  been  cheer- 
fully endured,  and  even  death  itself. 
It  is  the  feeling  of  injustice  that  is  in- 
supportable to  all  men.  No  man  can 
bear  it  or  ought  to  bear  it." 

—  CARLYLE. 


The  treatment  of  cotton  to  similarize 
silk.  John  Mercer,  a  cotton  printer 
of  Manchester,  England,  applied  the 
process  to  fabrics  for  printing.  Eng- 
lish-speaking people  have  since  identi- 
fied the  process  with  his  name.  From 
what  we  can  learn,  the  Germans  knew 
of  the  treatment  for  hosiery  yarns  long 
before  Mercer  used  it.  We  have 
heard  more  of  the  idea  since  the  Ding- 
ley  tariff  came  in  force  as  a  cheapener 
of  fancy  wool  and  silk  stuffs.  The 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


process  is  simple.  The  yarn  or  cloth 
in  the  piece  is  treated  with  a  bath  of 
hydrate  of  soda,  solution  about  20° 
Baume,  for  a  length  of  time  sufficient 
to  saturate.  While  in  the  bath  there 
is  a  shrinkage  of  about  10  per  cent. 
When  taken  from  the  bath  it  is  neces- 
sary to  stretch  the  warp  to  its  original 
length.  This  can  be  done  while  it  is 
still  wet,  or  after  it  has  dried  by  sprin- 
kling with  pure  cold  water  while 
stretching.  This  imparts  a  bright  lus- 
ter, or,  in  other  words,  plates  the  yarn 
or  cloth,  which,  when  finished,  takes 
a  high,  silky  face. 

Yarn-dyed  cotton  cloth  in  stripes  (5llt0- 
or  checks ;  originally  of  Indian  make. 
Glasgow,  Scotland,  took  up  the  making 
of  the  fabric  on  a  large  scale.  The 
simplicity  of  its  construction  led  to  it 
being  one  of  the  first  fancy  cottons 
made  in  America.  We  now  have  so 
many  new  lines  of  cottons  called  ging- 
hams that  the  distinctive  feature  of  the 

21 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


(Btttfl"  name  is  almost  lost.  We  trace  it  to 
Gingamp,  a  town  in  Brittany,  where 
the  cloth  was  made  for  umbrella  covers. 
See  how  easy  it  was  to  derive  the  slang 
English  "  Gamp"  for  an  umbrella. 

Wool,  combed,  in  the  fleece  instead 
of  carded,  into  parallel  fibers,  the  light- 
ness and  firmness  of  which  was  suit- 
able for  making  the  finer  grades  of 
yarn.  When  William  the  Conqueror 
came  to  England  he  found  the  people 
of  a  certain  place  combing  the  fleece. 
He  had  worsted  the  people  in  battle, 
named  the  place  Worstead,  and  the 
yarn-making  took  the  name  of  the  place. 
Worstead,  in  England,  has  long  been 
known  for  its  fine  wool  yarns. 


Richard  Arkwright,  made  Sir 
Richard  by  George  III  in  1  786,  in- 
vented the  spinning  frame  in  1  767. 
He  was  born  in  Lancashire  in  1  732, 
had  very  little  education,  learned  the 
trade  of  barber  and  hair-dresser,  sold 
22 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


a  chemical  hair-dye,  saved  a  little  Htft 
money,  in  his  spare  time  studied  the 
workings  of  the  cotton  manufacturers 
of  his  district.  By  close  application 
he  brought  his  spinning  device  to  a 
practical  shape.  You  can  understand 
he  was  not  long  in  the  barber-shop 
after  that.  It  appears  he  had  not  much 
time  to  devote  to  other  inventions,  as 
all  his  after  life  seems  to  have  been 
taken  up  in  preventing  others  stealing 
his  invention. 

Justice  is  supposed  to  be  the  basis 
of  all  law. 

Heavy  woolen  cloth,  woven  with 
fast  back,  fulled  or  shrunk,  used  for 
overcoating.  The  name  is  from  Mel- 
ton, a  town  in  Leicestershire,  England. 

A  cloth  of  same  general  appearance 
as  melton,    of   a   lighter   weight,    for     CttC 
women's  wear. 

In  order  to  prophesy,  one  must 
know.  To  know,  one  must  have  had 

23 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


experience.  To  be  a  prophet  for  profit, 
keep  a  careful  memorandum  of  each 
season's  features.  Fashion's  wheel 
turns  with  every  renewal  of  your 
bodily  structure,  or,  as  we  are  told, 
once  every  seven  years. 

Hairy-faced  cloth  of  plain  weave. 
Zibeline  is  French  for  the  small  fur- 
bearing  animal  known  as  the  sable, 
found  in  Siberia.  The  fur  of  the 
zibeline  is  the  mourning  fur  in  the 
garb  of  royalty. 

That  man  best  controls  others  who 
best  controls  himself. 

A  fine  corded  fabric  of  wool  or  silk, 
showing  the  cords  woven  close  to- 
gether, appearing  as  if  lined  with  a 
pin-point.  The  application  is  from 
Epingle,  French  for  pin. 

If  a  high  protective  tariff  is  a  benefit 
to  home  industries,  why  not  exclusion, 
and  with  it  perfection  of  trade  con- 
ditions ? 

24 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


3B&tl9tC 
Ot 

Baptiste 


6plltt 


Fine  linen  or  cotton  lawn.  Batiste 
was  a  Frenchman,  who  first  made  the 

doth. 

"Reading  maketh  a  full  man,  con- 
fidence a  ready  man,  and  writing  an 
exact  man."  —BACON. 

N.  B.  —  Keep  a  careful  record. 

Coarse  woolen  cloth  of  the  plainest 
weave  of  the  yarn  in  its  natural,  un- 
dyed  color.  The  name  is  literal,  spun 
and  made  at  home. 

Make  of  your  business  a  mistress, 
and  love  her  for  herself. 


Applied  to  plain  or  twilled  mixtures, 
woven  of  undyed  natural  wool  yarns.  COllJ 
The  French  spinners  found  that  the 
strongest  yarns  were  those  of  the  un- 
dyed wool  ;  sometimes  two  or  more 
shades  or  tones  are  spun  into  one 
thread.  The  name  is  French  for  strong. 

To    love  your  business  is  to  have 
one    of    the    ingredients    of    success. 


25 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


The  others  are  knowledge  and  appli- 
cation ;  they  follow  the  first. 

Fine  twilled  worsted  cloth  of  a 
Of  wiry  texture.  Originally  made  for 
gaiter  or  shoe  tops.  The  name  pru- 
nelle  is  French  for  plum.  Plum-color 
was  most  in  favor  in  the  cloth  for 
shoe  tops. 

It  was  estimated  in  the  seventeenth 
century  it  took  1 0,000  men  to  convert 
a  ton  of  wool  into  cloth  in  a  day.  We 
do  it  now  with  machinery  and 
1,000  men. 

Rough-finished  twilled  cloth,  either 
in  solid  colors  or  mixtures.  The  wool 
is  from  a  breed  of  mountain  sheep  of 
the  Cheviot  Hills  between  England 
and  Scotland. 

Past  success  furnishes  both  the  means 
and  motion  for  future  progress. 

^°k  cotton  mus^n  °f  6ne  quality, 
made  first  in  India,  later  in  Switzer- 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


land.      The  name  in  Hindoo  is  mal 
mal,  meaning  soft,  pliable. 

Live  your  business  life  alone,  or 
with  those  you  can  trust.  Beware  of 
the  stranger  who  wants  to  entertain 
you.  "Nothing  for  nothing.*'  "Rien 
pour  rien,"  the  French  say,  means  a 
great  deal.  Know  your  associates. 
You  will  learn  more  of  your  business 
and  have  less  to  regret. 

Cloth  of  undyed,  or  natural  wool. 
True  beige  is  a  plain  pick-and-pick 
weave.  Cashmere  beige  is  twilled 
cloth  of  same  order.  The  name  is 
the  French  word  for  "natural." 

Twilled  cotton  cloth  of  a  brown 
dust  color,  first  used  for  men's  clothing, 
in  India.  Taken  up  by  the  Anglo- 
Indian  army  for  uniform  cloth.  The 
word  khaki  is  Indian  for  earth,  or 
dust-colored. 

Rough,  unfinished  fabric  of  wool  or 
cotton  and  wool,  usually  of  yarn  of 

27 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


two  or  more  shades,  originally  the 
product  of  the  weavers  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  Tweed  in  Scotland. 

What  a  man  gives  out,  not  what  he 
keeps,  determines  his  appearance  in 
the  eyes  of  the  world.  Beauty,  bright- 
ness, color  consist  not  in  what  a  thing 
keeps,  but  in  what  it  gives  out.  A 
well-known  law  of  optics  teaches  us 
that  a  thing  is  seen  not  in  the  color 
which  it  takes  in  and  keeps,  but  in 
that  color  which  it  gives  back  again. 
The  thing  we  call  red  is  the  one  which 
is,  in  one  sense,  blue;  that  is,  it  takes 
in  the  blue  rays  and  keeps  them  for 
itself,  but  gives  back  the  red  in  color. 

Gold  has  kept  all  the  green  rays, 
and  gives  back  the  yellow,  so  we  see 
it  as  yellow.  The  object  we  call 
black  takes  in  every  ray  of  light,  and 
keeps  them  all  for  itself,  so  we  give 
black  the  mark  and  sign  of  evil.  The 
object  we  call  white  keeps  nothing 
of  the  sun's  rays,  but  gives  them 

28 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


all  out   again,  and  we  say  of  white, 
it  symbolizes  all  purity  and  good. 

Coarse,  heavy  cloth,  with  curly  sur- 
face, made  first  of  lamb's  wool.  The 
name  is  from  the  French  Friser,  to 
curl. 

Measure  thy  life  by  loss  instead  of 
gain;  not  by  the  wine  drunk,  but 
by  the  wine  poured  forth.  For  life's 
strength  standeth  in  life's  sacrifice, 
and  who  gives  the  most  has  the  most 
to  give. 


Is  the  yarn  or  thread  running  length- 
wise  of  the  piece.  Ot 

Cbaine 

"Run  if  you  like,  but  try  to  keep 

your  breath. 
Work    like  a    man,   but   don't    be 

worked  to  death." 

—HOLMES. 


Applied  to  a  twilled,  unsheared- 
face  cloth;  that  is,  the  face  appears 
to  be  unsinged,  and  shows  the  woolly 

29 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


jfCUlC  roughness  in  a  slight  degree.  The 
cloth,  when  woven  in  the  gray,  is 
fulled  or  shrunken  in  width,  by  soak- 
ing in  soapsuds  and  passing  it,  while 
wet,  through  holes  of  different  sizes 
in  a  steel  plate.  The  holes  are 
graded  to  give  different  percentages 
of  shrinkage.  The  name  is  from 
Fouler,  French,  to  full  or  shrink. 

"A  man's  character  is  like  his  shad- 
ow, which  sometimes  follows  and 
sometimes  precedes  him,  which  is  oc- 
casionally longer,  occasionally  shorter 
than  he  is." 

Cloth  made  of  the  hair  of  the 
cashmere  goat.  The  face  of  the  fab- 
ric is  twilled,  the  twills  being  uneven 
and  irregular  because  of  unevenness 
of  the  yarn.  Cashmere  yarn  was  first 
handspun.  The  cloth  was  originally 
made  as  the  groundwork  for  Broche 
India  shawls.  The  sheep,  for  their 
wool,  were  grown  in  the  Vale  of 
Cashmere  in  the  Himalaya  Mountains. 

30 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


"  Some  men,  like  pictures,  are  fitter 
for  a  corner  than  a  full  light." 

-SENECA. 

Is  the  yarn  or  thread  crossing  the 
piece  and  binding  the  warp  from  sel- 
vage  to  selvage. 

"It  is  another's  fault  if  he  be  un- 
grateful, but  it  is  mine  if  I  do  not 
give.  To  find  one  thankful  man  I  will 

oblige  many  that  are  not  so." 

—SENECA. 

A  fabric  woven  of  the  wool  of  the 
Merino  sheep,  twilled  on  both  sides, 
the  twills  being  uneven.  Merino  was 
the  hand-woven  origin  of  cashmere. 

The  standard  twills  of  cashmere  and 
henriettas  are  accepted  as  follows : 
French,  from  12  twills,  up  or  down, 
regulates  the  range  price ;  German 
henriettas  are  usually  rated  from  1  7 
twills.  This  grading  is  merely  to  give 
prices  for  whole  ranges  of  twills,  such 
as  a  line  of  blacks,  from  12  to  20 

31 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


twills  in  any  weight.  The  count  of 
twills  will  not  compare  different  makes, 
as  the  weight  has  all  to  do  with  the 
value.  The  writer  saw  a  piece  of 
cashmere  at  the  Paris  Exposition  of 
1889,  which  counted  100  twills.  By 
no  counting  of  the  twills  could  its  value 
be  estimated. 

"As  the  sword  of  the  best  tempered 
steel  is  the  most  flexible,  so  the  truly 
generous  are  most  pliant  and  courteous 
to  their  inferiors." 


Differs  from  worsted,  in  that  it  is 
IKIlOOl  drawn  out  into  fibers  on  an  appliance 
called  a  card,  which  maybe  a  leather 
band  fitted  with  steel  hooks  or  points, 
or  a  board  studded  with  metal  points. 
Carding  is  applied  to  the  softer  wools 
for  cashmere  and  flannel  weaving. 

He  who  knows  not  and  knows  not 
that  he  knows  not,  is  a  fool  —  avoid 
him. 

32 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Twilled  wool  fabric  in  which  the 
twills  are  very  even  and  regular,  may     tWtt 
be  single  or  double  twill.     The  cloth 
is    milled    or    cropped    in   finishing. 
The  name  is  from  Venice. 

He  who  knows  not  and  knows  that 
he  knows  not,  is  simple — teach  him. 

C.  Ahnert,  of  Paris,  has  received 
a  patent  for  a  method  of  imparting  a 
silky  gloss  to  cotton  yarn  or  cloth 
without  submitting  to  tension.  He 
claims  tension  is  unnecessary  if  the 
cotton  is  well  boiled  in  a  soap  solution 
at  122°  F.,  and  put  through  an  alkali 
bath  of  a  concentration  of  25°  to  35° 
Baume  at  a  temperature  of  86°  to 
104°  F.  The  cotton  is  taken  out  in 
about  2j^  hours,  rinsed  with  water,  to 
which  acid  may  be  added.  It  is  then 
bleached. 

He  who  knows  and  knows  not  that 
he  knows,  is  asleep — wake  him. 

33 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


ClOtb 


2)OC0Mn  Of  the  broadcloth  range,  made  with 
shiny-napped  face,  soft  finish,  as  the 
pelt  of  a  doe. 

He  who  knows  and  knows  that  he 
knows,  is  a  wise  man  —  follow  him. 


Plain-faced  cloth  of  wool  or  wors- 
ted,  with  twilled  back.  Originally 
made  in  England  in  2  7-inch  for  men*  s 
wear.  The  name  is  literal,  and  is 
now  applied  to  the  plain-faced,  wide- 
width  cloths  for  women's  wear. 

This  name  first  applied  to  fabrics 
woven  in  stripes  of  open-lace  effect  in 
cotton.  It  is  now  used  to  designate  the 
open-mesh  stripes  and  checks  in  silk, 
linen  and  mohair.  The  name  is  de- 
rived from  the  French  linon,  for 
linen  lawn. 

The  first  stage  and  simplest  form 
of  weaving  wool  cloth,  usually  pre- 
sented in  an  almost  unfinished  state. 
The  weave  may  be  plain  or  twilled. 

34 


IflflttttCl 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


The  fabric  is  finished  by  pressing,  no 
other  treatment  being  necessary. 
Name  from  the  French  flannelle. 

"He  who  can,  at  all  times,  sacri- 
fice pleasure  to  duty,  approaches 
sublimity." 

— LAVATER. 

A  plain,  even  thread  weave  of  mo- 
hair,  wool  or  worsted,  used  most  for 
making  flags.  The  name  seems  to  be 
derived  from  the  German,  bunt,  mean- 
ing variegated  or  gay-colored. 

Was  first  a  bright-colored,  checked 
or  striped,  plain-faced  cotton  and 
silk  fabric,  made  in  Madras,  India, 
for  sailors'  head-dresses.  The  name 
has  fallen  on  cotton  ginghams,  shirt- 
ings, etc.,  probably  because  of  the 
colorings. 

Choose  your  pleasures  in  the  line 
of  rest  and  recreation ;  leave  out  the 
expensive  and  straining  kinds. 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


A  plain  weave  of  flaxen  or  linen 
Of  yarn.     Originally  the  winding  cloth 

or  shroud  of  the  Egyptian  mummified 
dead.  Some  well-preserved  mummy 
cloth  can  be  seen  in  the  New  York 
Museum  of  Art. 


Health    lies  in    temperance  in  all 
things. 

H)f  ftp  A  heavy  cashmere  or  double-warp 

&'l6te  merino,  with  the  back  teazled  or 
scratched;  used  most  as  clothing  for 
the  priesthood.  In  lighter  weights 
for  women's  dress.  The  name  is 
French  for  "  cloth  of  summer." 

3BCtbCr  Satin-faced    fabric  of  light-weight 

cloth  ;  came  into  favor  about  the  time 
of  the  defeat  of  the  Berbers  by  Gen- 
eral Gordon  in  his  campaign  against 
the  Mahdi  in  North  Africa. 


A  good  cause  makes  a  strong  arm. 

36 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Similar  to  a  poplin;  made  of  hard- 
twisted  worsted  filling  and  cotton 
warp.  Was  made  a  success  in  the 
early  seventies  of  the  last  century  by 
the  Empress  Eugenie  of  France.  Em- 
press cloth  was  a  staple  in  all  well- 
regulated  dress  goods  lines  in  1  873. 

"Mens  sana  in  corpore  sano,"  a 
sound  mind  in  a  sound  body.  Keep 
your  body  clean  and  sound  by  ju- 
dicious exercise,  and  your  mind  will 
be  in  working  order. 


A  manufacturer  of  shoddy  was  be-  §J)0&t)\> 
fore  the  Ways  and  Means  Committee 
during  the  construction  of  the  Dingley 
tariff.  On  being  asked  what  shoddy 
was,  replied:  "  Anything  long 
enough  to  have  two  ends."  He  also 
said  he  sold  his  shoddy  to  almost  all 
the  wool  manufacturers,  and  further 
stated  that  as  much  as  80  per  cent. 
was  used  in  making  some  so-called 
woolen  cloths.  Shoddy  is  made  from 

37 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


old  woolen  stockings  or  rags,  shredded 
or  picked  by  hand  or  machine,  to 
render  the  yarn  or  threads  suitable  for 
spinning  into  yarn  a  second  time;  or 
to  give  a  fiber  that  can  be  woven  or 
felted  in  with  a  wool  or  cotton  warp. 
The  name  is  literal,  meaning,  in  its 
adverbial  sense,  cheap,  make  believe. 

"We  usually  judge  others  by  our 
own  standard ;  and  although  we  in- 
dulgently forgive  our  own  shortcom- 
ings in  them,  we  condemn  them  harshly 
for  lack  of  our  own  special  virtues." 

—BALZAC. 

Heavy  mohair,  cotton  or  silk  and 
cotton  cloth,  with  watered  or  moire 
face.  The  making  of  moreen  is  in- 
teresting. The  undyed  cloth  is  placed 
its  length  of  piece  in  a  trough  in  lay- 
ers, from  two  to  as  many  layers  as 
will  take  the  finish,  which  is  imparted 
to  the  cloth  by  placing  between  the 
layers  of  cloth  sheets  of  manila  paper ; 
the  contents  of  the  trough  are  then  satu- 

38 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


rated  with  water;  a  heavy-weighted 
roller  is  then  passed  over  the  wetted 
paper  and  cloth.  The  movement  of 
the  roller  gives  the  cloth  a  watered 
face.  It  can  then  be  dyed  and  re- 
finished.  If  you  examine  moreen  you 
will  find  the  design  or  marking  differ- 
ent on  every  piece.  Moreen  was 
made  for  upholstery  and  drapery  use 
at  first ;  is  still  used  to  cover  church 
seat  cushions.  It  was  found  to  give 
a  rustle  sound  or  "froufrou,"  similar 
to  silk,  so  was  taken  up  for  under- 
skirts. The  name  is  probably  from 
moire,  French  for  watering. 

"A  man  can  shine  in  the  second 
rank  who  would  be  totally  eclipsed  in 
the  first."  —BALZAC. 

This  name  has  been  applied  to  a 
range  of  satin-faced  velvet  or  silk 
fabrics  which  show  a  high  luster, 
which  is  produced  by  pressure.  The 
word  Panne  is  French  for  plush. 

39 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


•fecit* 
rietta 

Ciotb 


Sartane 


A  twilled  cashmere  of  light  weight 
and  high  finish,  originally  made  with 
silk  warp  and  wool  filling  in  York- 
shire, England.  This  name  is  now 
applied  generally  to  all  the  cashmere 
weaves  and  weights.  The  name  was 
given  in  honor  of  Henrietta  Maria  of 
England,  Queen  of  Charles  I.  The 
silk-warp,  hand-woven  fabric  was 
first  produced  about  the  year  1 660. 
When  the  all-wool  cloth  was  promoted 
in  the  United  States,  the  name  was 
wrongly  thought  to  have  been  taken 
from  a  play  popular  in  1884. 


Eleventh  Commandment: 
your  own  business.'* 


Mind 


Plaids  of  the  Scottish  clans  worn 
by  men  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland 
as  a  scarf,  from  the  shoulder  under 
the  arm ;  each  clan  had  a  distinctive 
tartan  or  plaid.  The  name  was 
adapted  from  the  Spanish  Tiritana, 
a  thin  woolen-checked  cloth. 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Help  a  weak  man  and  you  create 
an  enemy ;  help  a  strong  one  and  you 
gain  strength. 

Heavy,  coarse  linen  cloth,  gummed 
and  finished  to  a  firm,  stiff  texture; 
the  fabric  was  first  made  in  Bokhara, 
Tartary,  as  a  foundation  for  a  special 
floor  covering,  and  the  name  is  de- 
rived from  Bokhara. 

There  are  men  who  have  been 
helped  who  wish,  from  pure  hatred, 
for  the  downfall  of  the  one  who  aided 
them,  even  should  his  downfall  mean 
their  own  ruin. 

Satin-faced  cloth,  woven  with  fine 
line  or  stripe  running  lengthwise  of 
the  piece ;  usually  in  solid  colors  and 
piece-dyed.  Soleil  is  French  for  sun, 
and  applies  to  the  brightness  of  the 
finished  cloth. 

When  you  have  learned  to  give  no 
heed  to  those  who  do  not  heed  you; 

41 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


when  you  have  learned  that,  no  matter 
how  high  a  man's  head,  his  feet  are  on 
a  level  with  your  own;  when  you 
have  learned  not  to  put  confidence  in 
the  warm  days  of  winter,  in  the  sleep 
of  your  enemies,  or  the  flattery  of 
friends,  then  are  you  rich  in  learning. 

Coarse,  plain  weave  of  hempen 
yarn;  the  name  is  from  canabis,  the 
technical  name  of  hemp. 

Carelessness  will  work  as  much 
harm  as  malice. 


Plain   fabric  of   wiry  worsted   or 
UCt  mohair  yarn,  closely  woven,  with  a 

rough-finished  surface.  Sanglier  is 
French  for  wild  boar,  the  hairy,  wiry 
cloth  resembling  the  coat  of  the  animal. 

The  most  utterly  lost  of  all  days  is 
that  in  which  we  have  not  once  laughed. 

Originally  a  plain,  open-work  net- 
like  fabric  of  silk,  mohair,  cotton  or 
wool,  such  as  were  firmly  made  so  as 

42 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


not  to  slip  on  the  warp ;  were  called 
iron  frame.    Now  we  have  grenadines     6f ItC 
in  jacquards  and  set  patterns.     The 
name  is  an  adaptation  of  Grenada. 

"I  don't  believe  that  harmless 
cheerfulness  and  good  humor  are 
thought  greater  sins  in  heaven  than 
shirt  collars  are." 

—DICKENS. 


Plain  weave  of  silk  and  wool,  or 
silk  and  cotton;  first  made  for  um- 
brella covering.  The  name  is  literal, 
meaning  bright,  praiseworthy. 

Mr.  Carnegie  observes,  "There  is 
very  little  success  where  there  is  little 
laughter." 

Twilled  cloth  of  silk  and  wool ; 
finished  in  the  rough,  not  singed  or 
sheared.  The  name  is  from  Sultana, 
the  first  wife  of  the  Sultan. 

Render  your  account  to  God.  Call 
God  what  you  please — Supreme  Be- 

43 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


ing,  Grand  Master  of  the  Universe, 
the  good  that  is  in  yourself — what 
you  will,  only  render  an  account — 
ask  yourself  how  you  stand  ? 

Thin,  gauzy  fabric,  woven  in  loose, 
even  threads  of  silk,  heavily  sized  or 
gummed,  crimped  or  craped  in  the 
drying.  Crape  was  first  used  in  black 
only  as  a  badge  of  mourning ;  it  is 
now,  however,  an  accepted  dress  fab- 
ric, made  in  colors  and  white,  and  of 
many  materials.  The  name  signifies 
to  crimp  or  crape  with  a  hot  iron. 

Who  lives  without  folly  is  not  so 
wise  as  he  thinks. 

Cloth  of  a  fuzzy  or  fluffy  face ; 
woven  of  cotton,  silk  or  wool ;  used 
sometimes  for  dress  goods ;  more  gen- 
erally for  curtains  and  table  covers. 
Chenille  is  French  for  caterpillar, 
which  insect  the  single  thread  of  the 
cloth  resembles. 

44 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


The  basis  of  the  metric  system  of 
measurement,  equivalent  to  3937/100 
inches. 

Long  before  the  oldest  book  in  the 
world  was  written  the  Egyptians  cul- 
tivated flax  for  its  fiber.  We  read 
and  get  the  first  idea  of  its  utility  in 
the  Bible,  Exodus  9th  C,  31st: 
"And  the  flax  and  the  barley  were 
smitten  ;  for  the  barley  was  in  the  ear 
and  the  flax  was  boiled."  Note  the 
beautiful  texture  and  fineness  of  the 
linen  winding  cloths  of  the  Egyptian 
mummies.  Ages  before  the  French 
made  cambric  at  Cambrai,  before  the 
Lowlanders  made  lawn,  Egypt  had 
fine  linen  cloth.  To-day  linen  is  the 
fabric  chosen  when  firmness  of  weave 
is  desired,  more  particularly  where 
white  is  used,  as  in  shirt  bosoms,  col- 
lars, napery,  etc.  The  French,  in  the 
time  of  Napoleon  I,  made  great  prog- 
ress in  the  spinning  and  weaving  of 
flax,  which  they  used  in  making  fine 

45 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Xinen 


Elrna 


ffcoire 


Swiss 


sheer  fabrics  for  women's  and  men's 
wear.  The  name  linen  is  from  the 
French  linon,  equivalent  to  English 
lawn.  Most  of  the  French  weavers 
used  flax  for  the  lighter  lawn  textures. 

Cloth,  double  twilled  from  left  to 
right  diagonally ;  first  made  in  black 
only  as  a  special  mourning  fabric.  The 
name  is  from  the  Egyptian,  as  applied 
to  a  mourner  or  singer  at  funerals. 

Watered  design  of  any  material; 
first  made  in  silk.  Moire  is  French 
for  watering. 

From  Switzerland,  where  the  plain 
Swiss  net  and  figured  cambric  is  a 
specialty  in  the  St.  Gall  district. 

Business  is  sensitive ;  it  goes  only 
where  it  is  invited,  and  stays  only 
where  it  is  well  treated. 

Fine  linen  cambric,  used  now  for 
women's  dress ;  first  made  to  com- 
bine with  silk  and  drap  d'ete  for 


46 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


clerical  garb.  The  name  is  from 
Laon,  a  place  near  Rheims,  France, 
where  lawn  was  extensively  made. 


lawn 


Plain,  sheer,  soft-finished  fabric  of     CbtffOtt 
silk  or  cotton.     The  name  applies  to 
the   finish,   and    is  the  French  word 
for  rag. 

Applied  to  cotton  cords  is  a  mis-     IBICIUC 
nomer.     Pique  was  originally  woven 
in  diamond-shaped  designs  to  imitate 
quilting.      The    name    is  French  for 
quilting. 

Soft  wool  cloth  of  the  cheviot  order,     \t)i00QttC 
with  teazled  face ;  made  from  the  wool 
of  the  vicuna,  a  South  American  ani- 
mal of  the  camel  species.     Vigogne 
is  the  French  name  for  the  animal. 

French  name  for  bolting  or  sifting     Jgta- 
cloth ;  made  of  silk  for  sifting  flour ;     mine  Ot 
applied    to    mesh    or  net   weaves  in 
America;  accorded  a  special  duty  in 
our  tariff  when  made  of  cotton. 

47 


mine 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


The  hair  of  the  Angora  goat.  Fab- 
rics made  of  this  hair  are  called  mo- 
hairs. The  name  is  from  the  Arabic, 
mukay-yar,  cloth  of  goat's  hair. 

A  pile  fabric,  with  the  loops  of  the 
pile  drawn  through  a  foundation  and 
uncut.  Turkish  toweling  is  the  orig- 
inal terry.  The  name  is  from  the 
French,  tirer,  to  draw  or  pull. 

Study  the  errors  of  others  and  profit 
thereby ;  fools  laugh  at  them  and  for- 
get, and  are  forever  fools. 

Originally  challis.  Soft  wool  cloth, 
plain,  printed  or  figured.  Challis,  as 
first  made,  was  of  silk  and  wool  fig- 
ured in  small  design.  The  name  is 
from  the  Anglo-Indian  shalee,  a  soft 
cotton  cloth. 

Could  any  tariff  law  have  made  for 
this  country  a  Morse,  a  Whitney,  an 
Edison  or  a  Bell  ? 

48 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Yarn-dyed  linen  or  cotton  cambric. 
The  name  is  from  Cambrai,  the  French 
town  where  chambray  was  first  made, 
to  be  used  for  sunbonnets. 

A  fine  sheer  fabric  of  cotton  or  silk. 
Organdie  is  French  for  book  muslin. 

Corded  or  ribbed  cloth ;  made  orig- 
inally  of  silk  and  worsted.  Double 
poplins  have  double  warp  and  filling ; 
Irish  poplin,  single-warp  silk  and 
worsted  filling ;  Norwich  poplin,  of 
silk  and  linen.  The  name  is  French, 
popeline,  to  designate  the  weave.  The 
cloth  was  first  made  in  Avignon, 
France,  about  A.D.  1  500 ;  was  taken 
in  177 5  to  Ireland  by  the  French 
Protestant  refugees.  Ireland  has  since 
excelled  in  making  it. 

"Be  not  so  severe  that  you  are 
blamed  for  it,  nor  so  gentle,  that  you 

are  trampled  on  for  it." 

—TURKISH  PROVERB. 

49 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Heavy  twilled  cloth  in  natural, 
undyed  shades  ;  used  in  England  for 
men's  overcoats,  worn  while  riding  to 
covert  in  fox-hunting. 


(BnittitC  The  name  of  a  weave  resembling 

the  markings  of  granite  stone. 

Designs  on  any  kind  of  fabric  woven 
on  a  loom  having  a  chain  of  cards 
through  which  pass  wires  or  cords, 
the  lifting  or  dropping  of  which  raises 
the  warp  threads  to  allow  the  passing 
of  the  shuttle  for  the  weft.  Joseph 
Marie  Jacquard,  the  perfecter  of  the 
card  appliance  to  looms  for  the  weav- 
ing of  flower  or  irregular  designs,  was 
born  in  Lyons,  France,  July  7,  1  752. 
He  inherited  two  old  looms  and  a 
small  sum  of  money  from  his  father. 
Working  on  the  looms  he  made  prog- 
ress toward  the  perfection  of  his 
idea.  He  was  called  to  Paris  in 
1801  by  Napoleon  I,  and  given  a 
medal  for  his  invention,  which  did 

50 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


the  work  of  one  man  less  per  loom. 
The  appliance  was  perfected  in  1  804.  CJUat  J> 
Jacquard  died  in  1834.  The  city  of 
Lyons  erected  a  beautiful  statue  in 
memory  of  his  great  service  to  the 
silk-weaving  industry. 

Dress  contains  two  codes  of  moral- 
ity —  private  and  public.  Attention 
is  the  duty  we  owe  to  others  ;  clean- 
liness that  which  we  owe  to  our- 
selves. 


Printed  cotton  cloth;  large,  many- 

ill-  i      •         xvr 

colored  designs,  used  m  Western 
countries  for  furniture  covering.  The 
Hindoos  wear  it  as  a  body  drapery. 
Chints  is  the  Hindoo  word  meaning 
variegated. 

Knit  cloth  of  fine  combed  wool  ; 
made  first  in  the  Island  of  Jersey  for 
fishermen's  wear;  sometimes  made 
with  fleeced  back.  What  we  call 
stockinette  is  Jersey  cloth. 

51 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Sicilian 


3BtOCflbC 


The  plain,  simple  weave  of  the 
straw  plaiter  ;  the  weave  of  the  Pan- 
ama hat  makers. 

"Experience  is  the  best  teacher; 
only  the  tuition  fees  are  heavy." 

Heavy-weight  cotton  warp,  mohair- 
filled  cloth.  Sicilienne,  the  proper 
name,  was  made  in  the  Island  of 
Sicily  as  a  heavy-ribbed,  all-silk  stuff. 

Open-work  silk  net  ;  made  on  the 
pillow  as  lace,  by  the  young  women 
of  Tulle,  France. 

"Our  lesser  misfortunes  come  from 
thinking  too  well  of  our  fellows  ;  our 
greater  from  thinking  too  well  of  our- 
selves." —  SETH  LEE. 

Raised  figures  on  a  plain  ground. 
Early  writers  were  wont  to  brocade 
or  ornament  their  work  with  flour- 
ishes. 

"Dissipation  is  a  lottery  in  which 
there  are  no  prizes." 

52 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


A  kind  of  brocade,  used  for  drap- 
ery  and  upholstery;  usually  raised 
wool  figures  on  a  silk  ground. 

Cotton  muslin,  with  little  dressing 
and  slightly  finished  face ;  when 
printed,  used  for  shirting.  The  origin 
of  the  name  is  doubtful,  and  is  sup- 
posed to  be  North  of  England  dialect, 
meaning  long  cloth,  sold  by  the  ell. 

Highly  finished  and  dressed  per- 
cale ;  sold  in  solid  colors  for  lining. 

"The  world  o'erflows  its  cup  of  woe, 
Each  heart  has  felt  the  knife  of  pain ; 
But  I  would  have  my  soul  to  know 
That  all  is  best,  that  God  doth  reign." 

— R.  W.  GILDER. 

Hard-twisted  worsted  twills,  either 
solid    or   mixed    colors.     The  name     COtZ) 
is  from  the  hard -twisted  fiber  lash  of  a 
whip. 

Plain  silk  cloth,  sold  as  dress 
goods;  originally  made  for  handker- 

53 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


chiefs  only.     The  name  is  French  for 
silk  handkerchief. 

A   thousand    misfortunes    are    less 
affecting  than  a  single  kindness. 


(BlHCC  Plain,    lustrous    silk,    yarn-dyed  ; 

warp  of  one  color,  weft  of  another. 
The  name  is  applied  to  all  fabrics 
having  two  tones.  Glace  is  French 
for  icy,  having  an  icy  appearance. 


Weave,  showing  the  effect  of  cracks 
in  glass,  china,  etc.;  sometimes  applied 
to  an  imitation  crepon. 

Blue  and  white  striped  cotton  or 
linen  twill  ;  used  for  children's  sailor 
suits.  Galatea  was  a  sea  nymph  in 
Grecian  mythology. 

"  Laugh  and  the  world  laughs  with 
you, 

Weep  and  you  weep  alone." 

—ELLA  WHEELER  WILCOX. 


54 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


IlMume- 


Thin    cotton    fabric,   heavier    than     JflCOHCt 
cambric.     If  properly  made  one  side 
is  glazed.     Jaconet  is  derived   from 
the  French,  Jaconas. 

Cotton  or  woolen  sheer  cloth  hav- 
ing raised  dots  or  figures  in  relief  on 
plain  ground.  The  design  shows  a 
feathery  effect,  as  in  embroidery 
tambour.  The  name  is  French  for 
this  kind  of  embroidery,  and  is  derived 
from  plume,  French  for  feather. 

HOPE. 

"The  rainbow  to  the  storms  of  life; 
The  evening  beam  that  smiles  the 

clouds  away, 

And  tints  to-morrow  with  prophetic 
ray."  —BYRON. 


Any  cloth  treated  to  make  water- 
proof by  the  Cravenette  Company. 
Mr.  Craven,  of  Bradford,  England, 
copyrighted  a  process  of  treating  with 
parafine  and  naphtha,  and  gave  his 
name  to  it. 


Craven- 
ette 


55 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Cbene 


©mbre 


Crepon 


Souffle 


Sometimes  applied  to  glace  silk,  or 
cotton  two-toned  effects.  The  name 
is  literal,  meaning  shiny,  bright,  hav- 
ing a  sheen. 

"Originality  is  a  thing  we  con- 
stantly clamor  for,  and  constantly 
quarrel  with."  — CARLYLE. 

Design  of  weave  in  stripes  or 
waves,  showing  shaded  effect  from 
dark  to  light  in  same  stripe.  Ombrer 
is  French  for  shaded. 


"If    the 
written    on 


best    man's    faults    were 
his    forehead     it    would 

make  him  pull  his  hat  over  his  eyes." 

—GAELIC  PROVERB. 

Large  designs  in  figured  crepe. 
The  name  applies  to  the  crispiness  of 
the  finish.  French — Crepon,  to  make 
crisp. 

Thejargest  designs  of  crepon  show 
a  raised  or  puffed  appearance.  Souffle 
is  French  for  puffed  up. 


56 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Applied  to  hairy,  rough-faced 
weaves ;  we  have  Bourre  Souffle, 
hairy  crepons.  Bourre  is  French  for 
hairy. 

Herringbone    weaves    show    bars     CbCVtOH 
meeting  at  an  angle,  as  the  markings 
on   the  sleeves  of   military  uniforms, 
or  the  bones  of  a  herring. 

Cut  cashmere  is  a  cashmere  weave,     COUpUtC 
showing  lines  cut  through  the  twills 
lengthwise  of  the  piece.     Coupure  is 
French  for  cut  through. 

Cashmere  twill  on  one  side  or  face     (£fl0b* 
of  cloth ;  poplin  cord  on  reverse.  mere 

Double 

Call  not  that  man  wretched  who, 
Whatever    ills    he    suffers,    has    a 
child  to  love."        — SOUTHEY. 

Cashmere,  or  worsted  twilled-face     JjJebfOtb 
cloth,  with  cords  woven  in  the  warps,     (tOft) 
are  imitation  of   corduroy  for  riding 
habits.     Bedford,  a    town    in    Eng- 
land, gives  its  name  to  the  weave. 

57 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


COtC  In  France,  corded  cloth  for  riding 

costumes,  such  as  Bedford  cord,  is 
called  cote  cheval.  The  application 
being  through  cheval,  horse ;  cote, 
ribbed  or  lined. 

French  measure  equaling  forty-five 
inches,  used  in  folding  silk  in  putting 
up  in  pieces.  Superseded  in  measur- 
ing by  the  metre. 

l£ll  Measure  formerly  used   for  cloth. 

In  England  forty-five  inches,  Scot- 
land thirty-seven  inches;  rarely  used 
now,  as  the  thirty-six-inch  yard  is 
the  accepted  measure. 

Thirty-six  inches  in  America.  The 
English  yard  is  a  standard  established 
by  the  government,  indicated  by  two 
marks  on  a  metal  rod  embedded  in 
the  masonry  of  the  Houses  of  Par- 
liament. The  American  yard  is  sup- 
posed to  be  1-100,000  longer  than 
the  English,  but  is  not  fixed  by  gov- 
ernment standard. 

58 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


French    measure  —  the   one    hun-     CCtttt" 
dredth  part  of  a  metre.  mCttC 

"Good  breeding  shows  itself  most 
where,  to  an  ordinary  eye,  it  appears 

the  least." 

— ADDISON. 

Weave   showing   the    raised    lines     1bonC\V" 
of   the    bee's  comb  or  nest.     Called     COIttb 
Nid   d'Abeille   in    French,   meaning 
bee's  nest. 


Open  mesh  weave  of  coarse  cot- 
ton, used  mostly  in  fruit  packing; 
sometimes  for  dress  and  drapery. 
The  name  is  from  Tarlantanna, 
Milanese  for  coarse  weave  of  linen 
and  wool. 

Twill-faced  cloth  with  cord  or  cut 
across  the  warp.  The  name  is  from 
Sevastopol,  the  Russian  fortified  town 
captured  by  the  English  and  French 
in  1855. 

59 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Sheer  cloth  of  silk,  silk  and  wool, 
Of  or  silk  and  cotton,  woven  in  fine  cord 
effect  From  the  Greek  Aeolus,  God 
of  the  Winds,  comes  the  name.  Ap- 
plied in  the  sense  of  a  light  zephyr 
weight. 


Geometrical  designs,  puffed  up  in 
weave,  as  the  markings  of  a  waffle 
iron.  Gaufre  is  French  for  waffle. 

Curled  hair  or  wool,  woven  in  any 
cloth  to  show  the  curl,  is  boucle. 
The  word  is  French  for  curl. 

"A  man  has  no  more  right  to  say 
an  uncivil  thing  than  to  act  one ;  no 
more  right  to  say  a  rude  thing  to 

another  than  to  knock  him  down." 

—JOHNSON. 


fflOten-  Heavy  twilled    mohair    fabric  for 

tift£  men's   wear.     Sold    largely  to    Italy 

and  Spain.     The  name  is  from  Flor- 
ence, Italy. 

60 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Poplin  weave  of  mohair,  made  in 
coating  weight  for  Spanish  trade. 
Granada  is  a  city  in  Spain. 

Corded  weave,  lengthwise  of  the 
piece,  cotton  warp  alpaca  filling. 
One  of  the  first  products  of  the 
American  loom. 

"There  is  no  gold  of  such  great 
value  as  that  which  is  dug  from  the 
depths  of  a  sunny  nature,  to  be 
coined  into  smiles  and  helpfulness." 

Thin,  sheer,  soft-finished,  silk  fab- 
ric  of  a  veiling  kind ;    now  used  as     0CMCt 
millinery  lining.     The    name    comes 
from  the  Arab  Saracens,  who  wore 
it  in  their  headdress. 

Coarse,  heavy  cloth  of  cotton  and  JfU0tiHU 
flax.  First  made  at  Fustat,  a  town 
on  the  Nile,  near  Cairo.  Velveteen 
and  corduroy,  in  the  lower,  coarser 
grades,  were  sometimes  called  Fus- 
tian. 

61 


Textiles  and  the  O.rigin  of  Their  Names. 


Heavy    cotton    corded    stuff,  used 
tO\>  originally  for  servants*  livery.     The 

name  is  from  the  French,  Cord-du- 
roy  —  king's  cords.  The  king's  out- 
door servants  wore  the  cloth. 

"The  manners  which  one  neglects 
as  trifles  are  often  precisely  that  by 
which  men  decide  on  you  favorably 
or  the  reverse." 


Fabric  made  by  rolling  or  pressing 
a  pulpy  mass  or  mixture  of  hair  or 
wool  into  a  flat  mat.  The  name  is 
from  the  process.  To  felt,  is  to  mix 
and  press  into  shape. 

Coarse  cloth  of  linen  flax  and 
wool,  used  as  skirtings  by  the  British 
peasantry.  The  name  is  from  the 
component  parts  of  the  cloth. 

Heavy,  coarse  weave  of  goat's 
hair,  made  by  the  Thibetans,  in  Asia, 
for  men's  wear. 

62 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Originally  a  hand-knitted  woolen 
fabric,  plain  or  ribbed,  used  for 
shawls.  Most  of  the  tricot  in  use 
to-day  is  made  on  old  shawl  looms, 
and  finished  as  dress  goods.  The 
name  is  from  the  French,  tricoter,  to 
knit. 


Heavy  cross  weave,  as  the  sacking 
in  which  hops  are  packed.  68CR 

Sheer  fabric,  as  etamine,  with  in-     £BM0tf  Hi 
terwoven,  uneven  threads,  or  nubbed 
yarn    in    the   warp.     Mistral    is   the 
French  name    for   the   strong  north- 
west wind. 


Silk  fabric,  made  with  warp  and 
weft  of  same  size.  Organzine  is  the 
name  given  the  twisted  silk  thread  in 
Italy,  where  it  is  made. 

"Genius  and  brilliancy  do  not  in- 
sure success  ;  close  application  and 
continued  effort  yield  best  results." 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Ct000 


tr060 


H0tffl- 


Cloth  of  cotton  warp  and  bright 
wool  filling;  made  at  one  time  in 
Orleans,  France.  Many  of  the  so- 
called  alpacas  and  mohairs  of  to-day 
are  Orleans. 

Fabrics  with  warp  and  weft  of 
different  shades  ;  after  weaving  they 
are  crossdyed,  or  redyed,  to  give 
solid  colors  and  glace  effects.  Mo- 
hairs are  mostly  treated  in  this  way. 

Plain,  solid  color  flannel  in  special 
shades  for  women's  dressing  sacks  ; 
also  applied  to  a  fabric  of  hemp  for 
grain  sacks. 

Sheer  fabric  with  fleecy  surface. 
The  name  is  taken  from  the  bird 
whose  downy  breast  the  finish  of  the 
fabric  resembles. 

Curly-faced  cloth  resembling  the 
pelt  of  a  breed  of  Persian  sheep  called 
Astrakhan. 


64 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Long-piled  fabric  of  the  velvet  or-     |MU0b 
der.     Peluche,  the  origin  of  the  name, 
is  French  for  shaggy. 


Twilled  cotton  cloth  of  light  weight, 
finished  to  imitate  silk  satin. 

Heavy  overcoating,  with  high, 
bright  finish.  The  name  from  the 
beaver,  a  North  American  fur-bearing 
animal. 

Silk  warp,  wool  weft,  fine  twilled 
cloth  ;  originally  made  in  black  only 
for  mourning  ;  used  largely  for  mourn- 
ing hat  bands.  The  root  of  the  name 
is  bombyx,  Greek  for  silkworm. 


Grenadines  with  large,  colored 
flower  designs  in  relief.  The  fabric  W(JUC 
was  in  favor  about  A.  D.  1  860,  when 
the  first  white  settlement  was  made 
by  the  Portuguese  on  the  Island  of 
Mozambique,  off  the  east  coast  of 
Africa. 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Quilted  designs  in  any  fabric; 
from  the  French,  matelasser,  to  stuff 
or  pad. 

Heavy  cloth  for  coating,  of  the 
beaver  range.  High  satin  finish. 
Made  first  in  Kersey,  England,  a 
woolen  goods  center. 

Twilled  stuff  in  men's  wear  weight. 
ItlCtC  The  name  is  a  variation  of  cashmere. 

Cassimere,  when  properly  made,  is  of 
cashmere  wool. 


Heavy  nubbed  overcoating.  The 
French  montagne  for  mountain  is  the 
origin  of  the  name,  being  for  moun- 
tain wear. 

Same  as  beaver,  of  a  lighter  weight. 
Beaver  fur  is  sometimes  called  castor. 


Cbitt-  Heavy  coating   with    rough,  wavy 

face.  The  name  is  Spanish  for  a 
fur-bearing  animal  of  the  mink  spe- 
cies. 

66 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Similar  to  etamine,  with  a  very 
close  mesh  ;  made  first  of  silk  and 
wool.  Tamis  is  French  for  sieve. 

Coarse  cloth  of  flax  and  tow,  made 
in  America  of  cotton,  in  checks  or 
plaids;  used  for  furniture  covering 
and  mattress  making.  The  town  of 
Osnaburg,  in  Germany,  made  the 
fabric  first. 

Double  twilled  silk  and  wool  stuff. 
Named  for  Melrose,  a  town  on  the 
Tweed,  in  Scotland. 

Weaves  showing  the  small,  inter- 
laced  designs  of  chain  armor. 


Teasled  cotton  flannel.    The  name     IDOlttCtt 
is  from  domestic,  or  home-made. 


Napped  cotton  flannel.     Made  first 
for  trade  with  Canton,  China. 


Light  weight  twilled  worsted.  Same 
derivative  of  name  as  Kersey.  ITlCtC 

67 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Applied  to  billiard  cloth;  relates 
to  the  color.  Chudah  is  the  Hindoo 
name  of  a  bright-green  plant. 

A  name  to  distinguish  yarn  dyed 
from  piece-dyed  heavy  cotton  twills. 

2)rlll  Or  Three-thread  cotton  or  linen 
twilled  cloth;  from  the  Latin,  trilex, 
of  three  threads. 

Cotton  or  woolen  coarse  twilled 
fabric  in  cotton  used  for  linings,  in 
wool  for  men's  cheap  clothing.  The 
name  is  from  a  Genoese  coin,  relat- 
ing to  the  price  of  the  cloth ;  so 
much  for  one  jean. 

SCtlltl  Open  mesh  wear  of  cotton  or  linen 

for  curtains  and  linings.  The  name 
is  from  scrimp,  referring  to  the  econ- 
omy in  weaving. 

Soft  wash  silk  made  in  China  from 
the  product  of  a  wild  silkworm.  The 
name  is  from  Pun-ki,  Chinese  for 
woven  at  home  on  own  loom. 

68 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Sheer  stuff  of  silk  and  wool  for 
veiling.  Made  largely  near  the  town 
of  Bareges,  in  France. 

Name  given  to  curled  wool  fabric 
showing  the  effect  of  the  coat  of  the 
caniche,  a  French  dog. 

Same  as  epingline;  same  deriva- 
tion. 

Coarse  linen  toweling.  Crassus, 
the  Latin  origin  of  the  name,  means 
coarse. 

Nubbed  or  bourette  yarn  woven  as 
design  in  plain  or  fancy  ground. 
Bourette  is  French  for  slightly  hairy, 
applied  to  the  hairy  nubs  of  the  yarn. 

Design  showing  wavy  surface. 
Onduler  is  French,  to  wave. 

Light  worsted  yarn;  also  light- 
weight  cotton  gingham.  Zephyrus, 
Greek  for  the  light  west  wind. 

69 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


0UCfeCr 


CtC" 
tOltnC 


Flower  designs  on  plain  ground. 
Same  derivative  of  name  as  damask. 

Thin  silk  and  linen  stuff,  made  first 
in  India  for  men's  wear.  The  de- 
sign was  set  stripes,  alternating,  plain 
and  crimped,  or  creped.  The  name 
is  Anglo-Indian,  and  is  merely  dis- 
tinctive; has  no  reference  to  the 
weave. 

Heavy  cotton  cloth  printed  in  large 
designs,  for  drapery  and  furniture 
use.  Cretonne  was  a  Frenchman  who 
first  made  the  cloth. 


1KIlin6C\>          Same  as  linsey-woolsey.    The  name 
is  a  change  on  linsey. 

Coarse  hempen  cloth  for  packing 
purposes  ;  also  used  for  wall-covering. 
The  name  is  a  corruption  of  the 
Danish  boenlap,  a  rubbing  cloth. 


70 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


PEOPLE  WE  MEET  IN 
DAILY  BUSINESS  LIFE 

One  who  believes  in  the  first  per- 
sonal pronoun. 

Blood  brother  to  a  parrot. 
One  who  is  fond  of  facts. 

Always  in  agreement  with  present 
company. 

One  who   steals   enough  to  afford 
going  to  jail. 

The  other  fellow  in  an  argument. 

One   who   is   sure   of    and    strong 
enough  to  be  himself. 

One  who  thinks  he  has  a  right  to 
his  own  God. 

The  man  whom  you  think  dislikes 
you. 

A  person   who   helps    lawyers    to 
pervert  justice. 

71 


mat 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


Iklepto- 
maniac 


moil 


®ptt" 
tTli0t 

1PC601 


IRC- 


Social 

I0t 


One  who  steals  that  which  he  is 
able  to  buy. 

One  who  tries  to  show  how  fool- 
ish most  laws  are. 

One  who  has  found  a  way  around 
the  Vllth  commandment. 

One  whom  you  wish  did  not  live 
next  door. 

A  person  who  believes  the  worst 
is  here. 

One  who  believes  the  worst  is  yet 
to  come. 

A  person  who  should  be   a   law- 
yer. 

One  who  thinks  he  can  change  the 
course  of  Niagara  by  shouting  at  it. 


man  w°  c°vets  ns   e~ 

lows'  earnings. 

^  person  with  an  ingrowing  con- 
science, which  prompts  him  to  telling 
mean  things. 


72 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


The  august  personage  who  keeps 
timid  people  in  their—  to  him — proper 
place. 

One  who    knows   the   earth  is  an     \Da0nUlt 
oyster. 

A  reader  of  the  funny  papers.  UCUt 

What  we  should  call  the  average     Jan- 
daily  paper  editor.  tb00C 

One  who  wants  to  tax  every  busi-     Jj)anftC€ 
ness  but  his  own. 

One  who  works  overtime, 


73 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


CONCLUSION 

Dan  Hix  was  a  village  character 
where  I  lived  as  a  boy.  He  was  a 
stupid  old  fellow  who  owned  a  box- 
bed  wagon  and  a  scraggly  horse. 
With  this  outfit  he  hauled  kindling 
wood  from  the  sawmill  and  ashes  to 
the  dump. 

The  boys  of  the  village  were  talk- 
ing one  evening  of  Dan's  stupidity. 
One  ventured  the  opinion,  Dan  could 
not  be  taught  to  spell  his  very  short 
name  in  a  week.  Another  offered  to 
wager  he  could  teach  Dan  to  spell  it 
right  off  in  that  time.  Small  wagers 
were  made  for  and  against  the  propo- 
sition. Dan,  on  being  asked  how  he 
would  like  to  be  able  to  spell  his 
own  name,  promptly  agreed  it  would 
be  the  one  thing  desirable.  One  of 
the  boys  was  told  off  to  arrange  for 
the  test  at  the  week's  end,  and  the 
teacher  started  with  Dan.  Along 
about  the  third  night  the  report  came, 

74 


Textiles  and  the  Origin  of  Their  Names. 


"Dan  can  spell  his  name."  Satur- 
day night  came;  the  test  was  to  be 
made.  The  teacher  told  with  pride : 
"Dan  had  not  only  learned  to  spell 
his  name,  but  had  learned  the  alpha- 
bet as  well."  All  the  boys  who 
knew  of  the  affair  were  on  the  village 
common.  Whichever  way  the  de- 
cision went  a  bean  feast  was  to  fol- 
low. Dan,  mounted  on  a  pile  of 
lumber,  poor,  simple  Dan.  I  can  see 
his  grin  of  pride  in  his  accomplish- 
ment now.  The  boy  teacher  started 
Dan  to  spell,  a  letter  at  a  time. 
Now,  Dan,  the  first  letter.  "D," 
said  Dan,  and  on  he  went  to  H  and 
I,  then  hesitating,  as  if  in  doubt;  the 
teacher  urged  him  with,  "Why,  Dan, 
what's  the  last  letter?  You  had  it 
pat  an  hour  ago."  Dan's  face  bright- 
ened as  he  yelled,  "  Izzard,  be  gosh!  " 
and  lost  for  his  backers.  Poor  Dan 
was  overtrained,  and  showed  how  it 
was  possible  to  know  too  much. 


75 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

ENVIRONMENTAL  DESIGN  LIBRAKX 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


»  Lli  2     1967 

JUL  1  1  13&9 

M|G151969 

n\j  <-* 

^82719730 

0 

LD  21-40m-10,'65 
(F7763slO)476 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


